What Are Chemical Exfoliants?

Chemical exfoliants dissolve dead skin cells using acids, instead of scrubbing them off mechanically like a physical scrub. This is usually gentler and more even, because no sharp particles rub across the skin. The result: smoother texture, a fresher complexion and ingredients that absorb better afterwards.

The three most important groups are AHA, BHA and PHA. They differ mainly in how deeply they work and which skin needs they're designed for. Once you understand them, you can choose exactly the right exfoliant for your skin.

AHA – For Surface and Glow

AHAs (alpha hydroxy acids like glycolic or lactic acid) are water-soluble and work on the skin's surface. They dissolve dead cells, smooth texture and deliver a radiant complexion. They're especially suited to dryness, dull skin and first fine lines.

Because AHAs make the skin more light-sensitive, sun protection the next day is a must. It's best to use AHA products in the evening so the skin can regenerate overnight.

BHA – For Pores and Oily Skin

BHA (usually salicylic acid) is oil-soluble and can therefore reach right into the pores. There it dissolves sebum and build-up, which makes it the ideal ingredient for oily skin, blackheads and clogged pores. It also has a mild anti-inflammatory effect.

Anyone prone to blemishes benefits most from BHA. It combines well with soothing ingredients to keep the skin balanced while it clarifies.

PHA – The Gentle Alternative

PHAs (polyhydroxy acids) are larger molecules and penetrate the skin more slowly. That makes them milder and suitable even for sensitive skin that reacts to AHA or BHA. At the same time they provide hydration, which makes them especially well tolerated.

If you're new to chemical exfoliants or have reactive skin, it's best to start with PHA. The equally mild LHA (a gentle relative of salicylic acid) is also a good bridge between effect and tolerability.

How Often and What to Watch For

Less is more: start with one or two applications per week and increase slowly once your skin plays along. Don't combine exfoliants with other strong actives like retinol in the same routine, to avoid over-stressing the skin.

After exfoliating, hydration and barrier care are important, and during the day sun protection is a must. If your skin feels persistently tight or stings, that's a sign you're exfoliating too often or too strongly.

Our Exfoliation Picks

These three products from our range cover AHA, BHA and PHA, from a daily toner to a gentle option for sensitive skin.