Azelainsäure: Wirkung bei Unreinheiten, Rötungen und Flecken

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ACTIVES GUIDE

Azelaic Acid in K-Beauty: The Gentle All-Rounder for Breakouts, Redness and Dark Spots

One active that addresses three skin concerns at once and still counts as mild. What azelaic acid can really do, who it's worth it for and how to introduce it properly.

by Merielyn, founder of VELVET GLOW

In this article you'll learn:

What azelaic acid is and where it comes from
What it can do for breakouts, redness and dark spots
How to introduce it without irritating the skin
Which actives it combines well with

What Is Azelaic Acid?

Azelaic acid is a dicarboxylic acid that occurs naturally in grains such as barley, wheat and rye. In cosmetics it's now made synthetically and is vegan. It isn't a classic fruit acid like AHA and therefore works much more gently than many exfoliants.

In Korea, azelaic acid is one of the actives growing fastest right now. That fits the K-beauty philosophy: it should work without straining the barrier.

What Can Azelaic Acid Do for the Skin?

For breakouts: It's antibacterial and regulates keratinisation in the pores. That can help reduce spots and blackheads.

For redness: It's anti-inflammatory and is therefore often used on red skin.

For dark spots: It inhibits pigment formation and can help lighten dark marks after breakouts. More on this topic in the article on tranexamic acid and the guide to kojic acid.

An honest note: cosmetics usually contain around 10 percent azelaic acid. Higher concentrations are available as a medication through a doctor. For severe acne or a suspected case of rosacea, a visit to the practice is worthwhile.

Who Is Azelaic Acid Suitable For?

Mainly combination and blemish-prone skin, red skin and skin with marks after spots. Sensitive skin often tolerates it well too, but a slight tingling in the first few days is normal.

During pregnancy or breastfeeding, it's best to discuss use with your doctor.

How to Introduce It Properly

Start every second evening and slowly build up to daily if your skin copes. Apply it after the toner and before the cream. In the morning, sunscreen is part of the routine, because with dark spots UV protection is the foundation of any improvement.

Expect to be patient. With breakouts, first changes often show after a few weeks; with dark spots it usually takes much longer.

Merielyn's Note

With azelaic acid I was impatient at first. After two weeks I thought nothing was happening and wanted to switch already. I carried on, and only after a few weeks did I see the skin becoming calmer.

What helped me: a photo in daylight on day one and another after four weeks. The eye gets used to your own skin so quickly that you barely notice progress day to day. Without a comparison photo I'd certainly have given up on the product too early.

What Can You Combine Azelaic Acid With?

Very well with niacinamide, hyaluronic acid, centella and ceramides. This group soothes and strengthens the barrier and makes introduction more comfortable. How to split actives sensibly is explained in the article on combining actives.

Be careful with retinal and strong acids on the same evening. Use them on separate evenings instead.

The Most Common Mistakes with Azelaic Acid

First: too much too fast. A slight tingling is normal, burning is not.

Second: giving up after a week. The active needs time.

Third: forgetting sunscreen. Without UV protection, dark spots come back faster than they left.

Frequently Asked Questions About Azelaic Acid

How long does azelaic acid take to work?

For breakouts often a few weeks, for dark spots usually several months. A before and after photo helps you see progress.

Does azelaic acid make skin sensitive to light?

No, it isn't considered photosensitising. You still need sunscreen every day with dark spots.

What's the difference from tranexamic acid and kojic acid?

All three are used for dark spots. Azelaic acid additionally focuses on breakouts and redness, while tranexamic acid and kojic acid mainly work on skin tone.