Reedle Shot & Spicules Explained: How Microspicules Work – and How to Use Them Without Irritating Your Skin
Tiny needles from freshwater sponges meant to carry actives deeper into the skin. What's behind it, why it tingles, how to start properly and who the trend isn't for.
In this article you'll learn:
- What spicules are and where they come from
- Why they tingle – and what that says about the effect
- How to start safely and how often to use them
- Who spicules are not suitable for
What Spicules Actually Are
Spicules are microscopic, needle-shaped structures from freshwater sponges. The sponge builds them from silica to stabilise and protect itself. For skincare they're cleaned, processed and worked into serums, creams and masks.
On the skin they act like countless tiny channels: they create microscopic openings in the outermost horny layer through which actives can penetrate better. The idea resembles microneedling at a clinic – only far more superficial, without a device and at an intensity meant for home use.
The technology became popular through VT Cosmetics' Reedle Shot line; several Korean brands now work with it. The name “Reedle” is a portmanteau of “reed” and “needle”.
Why It Tingles
That light prickling after application is how you recognise spicules. It's mechanical, caused by the needle structures on the skin, not by acids or alcohol.
Important to understand: stronger tingling doesn't mean better results. It only means there are more spicules in the product or that your skin reacts more sensitively. If it burns rather than tingles, if the skin feels hot or turns red and that doesn't settle after a few minutes, the concentration is too high for you.
The numbers in the product names – 100, 300, 700 – refer to the spicule concentration at VT. Always start with the lowest, even if the higher one sounds more exciting.
What Spicules Can Do – and What They Can't
They're not an active in themselves, they're a delivery system. A spicule product works through whatever else is in it: peptides, PDRN, cica, hyaluronic acid, retinal, vitamin C. The spicules make sure more of it arrives.
Realistic: a smoother skin surface, finer texture, less visible pores and a better effect from the rest of your routine. Not realistic: removing scars or deep wrinkles, or replacing a professional microneedling treatment. Spicules work in the uppermost skin layer, not in the depth.
How to Start Properly
Begin with the lowest concentration, twice a week, in the evening. Apply to dry skin after cleansing – not to damp skin, or the spicules distribute unevenly.
Don't massage it in. Press gently, let it settle briefly, then a soothing moisturiser on top. Leave out the eye area, lips and the sides of the nose.
No acids, no retinol and no high-dose vitamin C in the same application. The skin is more permeable afterwards, and that's exactly what turns otherwise harmless actives irritating. The next morning, sun protection is non-negotiable.
Merielyn's Note
Reedle Shot is the product I get asked about most – and the one I most often advise caution with. Not because it's bad, but because many people start with the highest concentration, since it looks most impressive in videos.
My own mistake at the beginning: I massaged it in like a normal serum. My skin went red afterwards and I thought I couldn't tolerate it. It was only the technique – pressing gently instead of rubbing makes all the difference.
What I recommend today: eight weeks, twice a week, with the 100. If your skin stays calm you can go up. And put the application on an evening when you have nothing important the next day – simply so you stay relaxed about it.
Who Spicules Are Not For
With active rosacea, eczema, open or inflamed areas and freshly sun-exposed skin, spicules don't belong on the face. The same goes for a damaged skin barrier – when the skin feels tight, stings and reacts to everything, soothe and rebuild first.
Very sensitive skin can tolerate spicules, but needs the lowest concentration, longer intervals and a formula with soothing partners such as cica or panthenol.
Frequently Asked Questions About Spicules
Is Reedle Shot the same as microneedling?
No. Device microneedling creates targeted injuries in deeper skin layers. Spicules work only in the horny layer. The mechanism is similar, the depth and the risk are not.
How often can I use it?
Twice a week to begin with. After several weeks without irritation you can move to every other day. Daily use is too much for most people at the higher concentrations.
Can I combine it with retinol?
Not in the same application. On different evenings, yes – for example spicules on Monday and Thursday, retinol on other days.
How long until you see something?
You often feel the smoother surface after the first application. For pores and texture, expect six to eight weeks of regular use.
Our Spicule Picks
The entry concentration, the stronger version and a gentler option.
VT Cosmetics
Reedle Shot 100
The entry concentration and the right start for almost everyone. Twice a week in the evening, for eight weeks.
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VT Cosmetics
Reedle Shot 300
The stronger step for anyone who tolerates the 100 without trouble. Only switch once your skin has stayed calm for weeks.
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VT Cosmetics
Pro Cica Reedle Shot 100
Spicules plus cica – the most tolerable version for sensitive skin that still wants to try the effect.
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